During the winter months, protective hairstyles are on the minds and hearts of many naturals. But is protective styling really “protective”? What exactly are we protecting our hair from? Can you get through the winter without them?
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Seasoned hairstylist, educator and editorial stylist Roni Jones shares 7 truths about “protective styling”:
According to Roni, “Hydrated hair, which is when hair is the strongest, is when the hair is best protected.” Acquiring hydrated hair requires a thorough regimen of cleansing and conditioning with water-soluble, water-based products with botanically-based ingredients.
Using traditional “protective” styling as a means of protecting your hair from the elements won’t matter if you’re not keeping your hair hydrated regularly.
Whether it’s for vacation, preference, boredom, creative expression, or something we do to give ourselves a break from our maintenance routines, alternative hairstyling allows us to avoid the work required to achieve and maintain healthy hair or keeps us looking polished when we haven’t yet learned our hair and how to properly care for it.
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Our hair grows at about half an inch per month. Coupling that rate of growth with a dope hair care regimen results in attaining length. While it seems that rocking an alternative style results in hair growth what you’ve experienced was the retention of that half an inch of hair that was destined to emerge from your scalp. Alternative styling doesn’t change the rate of growth; it prevents us from over-manipulating the hair which results in length retention.
When going into any braids, weaves, twists, wigs, etc. for an extended amount of time with dry damaged hair you will come out of those styles with guess what? Dry, damaged hair. Before any alternative styling involving the use of extension hair, your hair should be clean and deep conditioned with a quality moisturizing conditioner (if you think your hair needs a protein treatment before installing, it is not the time for a “protective” style), says Roni.
Alternative styles are best suited for those whose hair is in a healthy, hydrated state. Those with weak, thirsty, brittle or damaged hair should avoid these styling options at all costs.
According to Roni, “When synthetic materials rub against our hair, the outermost layer known as the cuticle becomes compromised. Incorporating a heavy moisturizer with ingredients that coat the hair during installation will
buffer friction between extension hair and your hair while providing much-needed softness and lubrication.”
Dirt and oil buildup can smell, clog and damage follicles, impede growth, lead to dry brittle hair and, it’s just plain old good hygiene to regularly cleanse your hair.
Roni states, “To cut back on frizzies, use an applicator bottle mixed with shampoo and water to cleanse your scalp. Take the time to rinse shampoo longer than usual so you don’t leave any residue that may stick to braids or twists. Use the same applicator bottle technique to condition braided [or] twisted hair. Use a rinse-out conditioner that doubles as a leave-in, as any residual conditioner left on the hair won’t hurt it.”
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Leaving your hair in an alternative style beyond 4-6 weeks puts your hair at risk. While your hair is not within reach for you to over-manipulate, it is at risk of becoming severely dry.
Within 4-7 days of being shampooed, the water acquired by the hair during cleansing evaporates. With each passing day, the hair becomes drier and drier. Wearing a protective style beyond 4-6 weeks can lead to buildup, increased shedding, and even thinning.
So there you have it.
“Protective styling” is not really protective but is an awesome alternative styling choice when you need to shake things up a bit. The best way to protect your hair all year round is by keeping your strands hydrated/moisturized by implementing a simple regimen of cleansing, conditioning and styling using water-based, water-soluble products with botanically-based ingredients.
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