Why Treating Acne Correctly is Important for Blacks

Dealing with acne can be especially difficult for people of color, a skin expert says. Black, Asian, and Hispanic patients have a higher risk of being diagnosed with acne. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) was reported in about 2/3 of Black women. PIH is caused by irritation from topical acne treatments or procedural therapies and can occur as a sequela of acne, according to Dermatology Times.

Acne affects up to 50 million people in the United States each year. For people of color, acne is often accompanied by dark spots or patches called hyperpigmentation.

“Acne is the most common skin condition in the U.S., and it can be particularly frustrating for people with skin of color because of the discoloration and scarring that can occur after blemishes heal,” Dr. Crystal Aguh, a dermatologist in Columbia, Md says.

“For these reasons, it’s critical to treat acne in skin of color carefully and avoid skin care products that can exacerbate discoloration,” she explains in an American Academy of Dermatology news release.

For mild acne, try using products that contain a retinoid and benzoyl peroxide or a product containing salicylic acid or retinol. Use only skincare labeled “non-comedogenic” or “won’t clog pores,” since clogged pores can lead to breakouts.

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Don’t use skincare products that contain cocoa butter, as these can cause acne. Always check with your dermatologist before using at-home or herbal remedies, Aguh advises.

Don’t pick, squeeze or pop your acne, as this can lead to scarring, she adds. This is especially important for people with darker skin tones, as they’re more prone to developing PIH — which appears as dark spots on the skin — and thickened scars.

When washing your face, use a mild cleanser that won’t clog your pores, and only use your fingertips to wash and rinse. Vigorous scrubbing will worsen

your acne. Gently pat your skin dry with a clean towel, Aguh says.

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Don’t use heavy, oily makeup. Protect your skin from the sun. Try skin-lightening products on dark spots. If your acne only appears on your forehead and temples, your hair care products may be to blame, she notes.

“When treating acne, it’s important to be patient, as it can take at least four to eight weeks to see improvement after using a topical acne medication,” Aguh says.

Avoiding Acne

You can also try the following tips to avoid an acne breakout:

1. Wash your face: You should wash your face once or twice daily. Pat dry instead of scrubbing. As mentioned before, scrubbing can cause more acne to develop.

2. Avoid Exfoliating Brushes: Exfoliating brushes can cause inflammation resulting in more acne.

7. Stay out of the sun. The sun’s ultraviolet rays can increase inflammation and redness and can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark discoloration). Black people in particular tend to develop dark spots if they stay in the sun for too long. Wear protective clothing and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with six percent zinc oxide or higher and SPF 30 or higher at least 20 minutes before sun exposure. You should also aim for sunscreens that say “noncomedogenic” on the label to make new pimples less likely to appear. Keep in mind that some acne medications can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight.

8. Eat foods that are great for your skin: Foods like chocolate, don’t cause pimples. However, you should avoid greasy food and junk food. Instead opt to add more fresh fruits, vegetables and whole grains to your diet. Dairy products and foods high in processed sugar can also trigger acne and should be avoided.

9. Exercise: Regular exercise is good for your whole body, including your skin. You should avoid wearing clothing or using exercise equipment that rubs your skin and may cause irritation. Shower or bathe right after exercise.

10. Reduce Stress: Elevated stress can affect the severity of pimples or acne. Ask yourself what’s making you feel stressed and find a way to eliminate it.

As mentioned before, you can also use over-the-counter acne medications, moisturizers, etc. to treat acne. If you are in doubt about the ingredients in these products or your make-up, you should speak with your dermatologist to ensure these products are safe for your skin and will not make your acne worse.