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Barbershop Talk: What Type of Wave Grease (Pomade) Should I Use?

Hairstyles, just like fashion, change by the season. A few years ago it seemed like everybody was rocking the classily nappy look while twisting their hair into the kinkiest of concoctions. This year it seems the men decided to bring back waves.

Waves are a hairstyle where your curls create a ripple pattern when brushed and flattened. This effect is made possible by lots of brushing, wave grease, and a wave cap. Wave grease or wave pomade to some is the magic that keeps your hair moisturized, full of sheen and holds it in place. However, there are some greases that you should stay away from.

The History of Pomade

Pomade is a hairstyling product that generally has a greasy or waxy texture to it. When pomade came into prominence in the early to mid 20th century it was made with just a few ingredients: beeswax, petroleum, lanolin, and fragrance. This product was especially popular for men with slick back, side part and pompadour hairstyles.

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Ask your grandparents about the term “greasers”. Greasers referred to the people who used pomade to achieve the comb-back hairstyles of artists like Elvis Presley. The 20th century brought about a new change in the way men styled their hair because gel and mousse became the new hairstyling products.

Pomade went out of style because people found it hard to wash out and the newer products still achieved the desired results. Since its inception pomade has gone through a number of changes, but it still remains a go-to product for many.

Oil-Based vs Water-Based Pomade

Oil-based pomades are the traditional pomades you probably grew up with. If the side of the bottle says petrolatum, mineral oil, petroleum or soft paraffin then it’s an oil-based pomade.

These types of pomades aren’t able to be dissolved by water. If you do decide to use an oil-based pomade then you’ll probably have to wash your hair multiple times to get it all out.

Traditional oil-based pomades contain

far fewer chemicals than the newer water-based pomade.

This type of pomade also doesn’t dry out which allows you to constantly restyle as you choose. People have also mentioned breakouts on the forehead, face, and back as a result of the oil-based pomade.

When you perspire the oil and sweat mixed together clog up pores.

Popular Oil-Based Pomade: Murrays Superior Hair Dressing Pomade

Water-Based Pomade

Water-based pomade can be washed out with water very easily. Unlike oil-based pomades, water-based pomades can dry out. Some prefer this characteristic because it gives them the ability to maintain their hairstyle for an entire day.

The water-based component of this product also decreases the likelihood of acne and buildup. Water-based pomades are usually priced higher than oil-based pomades.

However, nowadays there are dozens of water-based (or water-soluble) products on the market, so you can probably find some at a cheaper price.

Popular Water-Based Pomade: Luster’s S-Curl 360 Style, Wave Control Pomade

 
When do decide to use wave grease, here is a quick 6 step process to have them “Sea Sick” (lots of waves, get it?)
1. Get a short haircut and edge up.
2. Brush your hair for 1-2 minutes with a wave-brush.
3. Put a washcloth in running hot water, squeeze some water from the rag, and then place the hot washcloth on top of your hair and wipe down.
4. Repeat the hot water process for the sides and back of hair also.
5. Add a good moisturizer to your hair.
6. Place a wave cap onto your head for one day, preferably only at bedtime.

Daunte Henderson, founder of the MADEMAN Foundation, author, and educator based in Chicago. You can follow him at @brotherhenderson on IG

 

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