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Getting to the Root: What Your Hair Could Be Saying About Your Health

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If you’re like many Black women, your hair may reflect your personality and creativity. Your crown evolves with your lifestyle and often mirrors what you need in each season—but it could also tell an important story about your health.

Hair and scalp conditions are often related to simple issues that can easily be treated. But in some cases, these conditions may be red flags for serious health issues that require immediate attention.

In celebration of Women’s Health Month, explore five hair and scalp conditions that could indicate underlying health issues and how you can tackle them.    

RELATED: Scalp Psoriasis and Protective Styles: How to Prevent Painful Flare-ups

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Flaky scalp 

Black women commonly battle a flaky scalp, which could point to skin conditions like seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, or eczema. However, it could also signal neurological disorders or hormonal issues, especially when accompanied by other symptoms. For example, a flaky scalp accompanied by scarring, hair loss, or inflammation can be linked to autoimmune disease. 

In recent years, hair and scalp issues have become more prominent among Black women. “Over the past four years, I’ve noticed an increase in scalp and hair conditions among my clients,” says Aloni Griffin, cosmetology educator and lead designer stylist at Studio Chique Luxury Salon & Wellness Spa in Washington, D.C.  

To diagnose your flaky scalp, start by asking your primary care provider (PCP) for a dermatology referral. According to the Commonwealth Fund, Black people are less likely than other groups to have a regular care provider, so if you do not have a PCP, seek treatment at a community health or urgent care center. These centers do not typically have specialists who can treat ongoing scalp issues, but their physicians may provide temporary treatment and refer you to a dermatologist. 

A board-certified dermatologist will take your medical history and may examine your nails, face, and body. In some cases, the dermatologist will order a fungal culture, which they can use to diagnose skin infections.

The dermatologist may use one or more methods for the exam, such as: 

  • Observation: a visual exam 
  • Trichoscopy: imaging used to take a close look at your scalp
  • Biopsy: a small sample of skin taken from your scalp for analysis

If your scalp condition persists and does not respond to treatment, the dermatologist may order blood tests to rule out nutrient deficiencies or hormonal imbalances. They can also advise you on medical treatments, therapies, and lifestyle changes to manage the condition.

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Polina Tankilevitch

Hair breakage

Hair breakage happens when the length of your hair breaks or snaps. While mechanical damage, such as rough brushing or combing, can cause it, it may also result from thyroid disorders or nutrient deficiencies, such as low iron or vitamin D. Griffin, a licensed cosmetologist with more than 13 years of experience, cites “mid-strand breakage” as an increasingly common condition. “It indicates a shift in the overall health of hair and scalp among Black women that we can’t overlook.”

According to a study by Gathers and Mahan, 59 percent of Black women have experienced some form of hair breakage. Still, the signs may be subtle. If you have hair breakage, you may notice: 

  • Short broken pieces
  • Split ends
  • Thinning hair

Have a professional stylist trim your hair above the breakage and use gentle styling techniques. If your hair continues to break, see a dermatologist. 

RELATED: A Smoothie Recipe…For Hair Growth!

Hair loss

Unlike hair breakage, hair loss occurs at the root. If you have hair loss, you will notice shed hairs that have a small white bulb attached or large amounts of hair in your comb or brush. According to Mayo Clinic, hair loss is most commonly caused by genetics or aging.  

However, you should take action if you notice sudden hair loss, which could be caused by chronic stress, scalp infections, lupus, or alopecia, which commonly affects Black women.  

Scalp sores

Scalp sores that persist despite routine treatment may be due to inflammatory skin conditions, such as folliculitis or psoriasis. In rare cases, scalp sores can indicate skin cancer. Although melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancer represent about one to two percent of all cancer cases in Black people, they are often diagnosed in advanced stages, which increases the chance that Black patients will succumb to the disease. 

According to the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, skin cancer often presents in the scalp for Black women, so sores, lesions, or blisters in this area should not go untreated. 

Inflammation 

Inflammation is your body’s way of resolving irritation or infection. If you notice inflammation in your scalp, which may appear as redness, scaliness, burning, or tenderness, the causes could range from a product allergy to chronic stress.

Inflammation may resolve on its own, unless it’s linked to a serious health condition. Address scalp inflammation by seeing a doctor, who may prescribe a topical treatment. If the treatment does not help, return to the doctor for a new solution. 

Next steps

Take action as soon as you develop a hair or scalp issue. Note when the issue started and any steps you’ve taken to treat it. Log any supplements or prescription drugs you’ve taken since some blood pressure medications, hormonal contraceptives, cholesterol-lowering drugs, retinoids, and other medicines can contribute to scalp changes or hair loss.   

You should also consider environmental factors. “UV exposure, hard water, humidity, and temperature changes can all impact the condition of the hair and scalp,” Griffin advises. Share this information with your dermatologist so they can diagnose you accurately and provide the best treatment options.

During Women’s Health Month—and every month—self-advocacy is vital to timely care. “It’s important that we advocate for ourselves! We live in our bodies every day and know when something doesn’t feel right. If you notice changes or have concerns, don’t hesitate to ask questions, seek second opinions, and pursue the answers you deserve,” says Griffin. 

In addition, Griffin emphasizes the importance of seeking professional hair care. “Visit cosmetologists who prioritize hair and scalp health, and understand the unique needs of Black women’s hair. Building a consistent relationship with a trusted cosmetologist is key, as it allows them to track changes in your hair and scalp over time and respond early to any concerns.” 

Whether serious or benign, hair and scalp issues can disrupt your daily life and should not be ignored. You deserve proper treatment that allows you to achieve your hair goals, maintain your physical health, and get the care you need for the quality of life you deserve. 

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